tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-89735675207050712732024-03-17T05:18:54.298-04:00The Random AutomotiveDetailing, Parts, Cars...DB Production Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08129382091940965179noreply@blogger.comBlogger78125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8973567520705071273.post-17381350947898261072020-10-25T10:07:00.003-04:002023-01-22T11:24:47.162-05:00Destroyed 1965 Mustang<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C5gVPd7svrU/X5WEVf-q20I/AAAAAAAAB28/1fYDOQcfOVIloGD_VvdYhitgiw3bjkBJwCPcBGAYYCw/s1280/1965Mustang_BlogCover.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="abandoned 1965 mustang rotting in style 200ci inline 6 rust new jersey" border="0" data-original-height="528" data-original-width="1280" height="247" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C5gVPd7svrU/X5WEVf-q20I/AAAAAAAAB28/1fYDOQcfOVIloGD_VvdYhitgiw3bjkBJwCPcBGAYYCw/w571-h235/1965Mustang_BlogCover.jpg" width="570" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;">None of you watch my Rotting in Style videos anymore, but I have more
to make, so here you go. Prepare yourself for the worst 1965 Mustang
you’ve even seen!</p><p style="text-align: justify;">This car was filmed and sent to me by a family
member in New Jersey a few years ago. When told about it, I asked for
the VIN and door tag, so I know stuff about this car! No more guessing!
Woo! </p><p style="text-align: justify;">Side note... Why do cars no do door tags anymore? They offer so much information. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">Anyway...
This 1965 Mustang is obviously a hardtop with was built on June third
that came with a standard interior with black vinyl and black trim. It
was ordered by the District of Newark NJ (whatever that means), has an
axle ratio of 3.50:1, and has a 200 cubic inch inline 6. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">My notes
said I could not make out the door tag number for the transmission,
side note, it’s worth noting I don’t have that picture anymore, but I
put a question mark and the number 1, which means 3 speed manual.
However, this car clearly has an automatic. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">I have no idea what
has become of this car now, but in 2017 when this was filmed, it was a
mess. A third of the car is missing, and what’s there is rusted or
covered in primer. For what it’s worth, the rear of the back seats and
all the glass looks to be in great shape, just dirty. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">The odometer shows 80,000 miles and change, but with five digits, who knows what that really is. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">She was once a beauty queen, but now she sits, rotting in style.</p><div style="text-align: justify;">I have more Mustang content on here, and might have some more to come, I would suggest subscribing to our <a href="http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=dbproductioncompany">YouTube Channel</a>. Oh… Don’t forget to check us out on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Random-Automotive/381108308725729?ref=hl">Facebook</a> and <a href="https://twitter.com/TheRandomAuto">Twitter</a> as well. Thanks for reading! </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/OjoYC4wDUSA" width="560"></iframe> <br /></div><p> </p>
<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xli8YOr2DKI/X5WETzDuVEI/AAAAAAAAB2M/GexJNuvbyWYpjgTs3VvR82kO3qRiTMragCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/1965Mustang_Blog1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="abandoned 1965 mustang rotting in style 200ci inline 6 rust new jersey" border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xli8YOr2DKI/X5WETzDuVEI/AAAAAAAAB2M/GexJNuvbyWYpjgTs3VvR82kO3qRiTMragCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h225/1965Mustang_Blog1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KQxdX3_uGHw/X5WET0sWfQI/AAAAAAAAB2Q/kEuvCqAVhFEn9ibI25tcHtJVF-CwNWikACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/1965Mustang_Blog2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="abandoned 1965 mustang rotting in style 200ci inline 6 rust new jersey" border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KQxdX3_uGHw/X5WET0sWfQI/AAAAAAAAB2Q/kEuvCqAVhFEn9ibI25tcHtJVF-CwNWikACLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h225/1965Mustang_Blog2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V7qZkHcdHtA/X5WEUIlLyhI/AAAAAAAAB2U/h2GBPV3hsxc4phs4OgS8ac5cHYEkNJeAACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/1965Mustang_Blog3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="abandoned 1965 mustang rotting in style 200ci inline 6 rust new jersey" border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V7qZkHcdHtA/X5WEUIlLyhI/AAAAAAAAB2U/h2GBPV3hsxc4phs4OgS8ac5cHYEkNJeAACLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h225/1965Mustang_Blog3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cicrdk-tI4A/X5WEURPNoHI/AAAAAAAAB2Y/8Da8aP1DUow-HZcgLozR0agPshdBMHYWgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/1965Mustang_Blog4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="abandoned 1965 mustang rotting in style 200ci inline 6 rust new jersey" border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cicrdk-tI4A/X5WEURPNoHI/AAAAAAAAB2Y/8Da8aP1DUow-HZcgLozR0agPshdBMHYWgCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h225/1965Mustang_Blog4.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nYZRwSW5Ztg/X5WEUZsEV4I/AAAAAAAAB2c/o3KTfMZHZw8LHzPfoZslPTQPZkH2HTeGQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/1965Mustang_Blog5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="abandoned 1965 mustang rotting in style 200ci inline 6 rust new jersey" border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nYZRwSW5Ztg/X5WEUZsEV4I/AAAAAAAAB2c/o3KTfMZHZw8LHzPfoZslPTQPZkH2HTeGQCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h225/1965Mustang_Blog5.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B4IfTk-7i4A/X5WEUvZ0iCI/AAAAAAAAB2g/03jLR1alqEYz84ec1ZANs7UqA3TsDyCfgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/1965Mustang_Blog6.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="abandoned 1965 mustang rotting in style 200ci inline 6 rust new jersey" border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B4IfTk-7i4A/X5WEUvZ0iCI/AAAAAAAAB2g/03jLR1alqEYz84ec1ZANs7UqA3TsDyCfgCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h225/1965Mustang_Blog6.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>
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crossorigin="anonymous"></script>DB Production Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08129382091940965179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8973567520705071273.post-35333015604118946992020-04-06T09:55:00.001-04:002023-01-22T11:25:21.511-05:00Abandoned Boat in Alaska!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JbfrU8TTGOY/XoszgA5CHoI/AAAAAAAAB0A/gPcEjfYQn686vjZ7d0C8oreHsrVCauCpQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1970sBayliner_BlogCover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="1975 bayliner victoria abaonded alaska rotting in style " border="0" data-original-height="528" data-original-width="1280" height="247" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JbfrU8TTGOY/XoszgA5CHoI/AAAAAAAAB0A/gPcEjfYQn686vjZ7d0C8oreHsrVCauCpQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/1970sBayliner_BlogCover.jpg" title="" width="570" /></a></div>
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I’m so bored due to Corona Virus isolation that I am featuring a boat I found abandoned in Alaska! Boats and planes are almost as common as cars and trucks in Alaska. Naturally, I like the older stuff, especially growing up watching Jaws. </div>
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First off, sorry that I have not been as active on here as I have in the past. I am focusing more on the YouTube side of things, and you can see my <a href="https://www.youtube.com/thatdeltabravo">YouTube channel here</a>. Anyway, back to the vehicle in question! </div>
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Normally I like to get some video of what’s abandoned, but this time I only got some pictures, so that’s perfect for you readers versus you watchers! Now, I don’t know anything about boats aside from the fact that I know I can’t afford to store one. </div>
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This appears to be a late-mid 70s Bayliner Victoria. Apparently these 27 foot boats were powered by a Chevy 350. Again... I am learning all this as I go, so bear with me. There is a huge hole where the prop should be, so I don’t know if the engine is missing, or just the prop portion of it. I did not venture close enough to look inside the hole, and if I did, this was six years ago at this point, so I don’t remember. Yes, I am going through my achieves! </div>
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When seeing some of these boats for sale online during my recent research, one floating in the water and running had an asking price of $3,000, and one with an engine sitting on a trailer looking only half better than this had an asking price of $1,500. I don’t know much about the value of boats, but I assume that would make this one with a value of free, if it were for sale. </div>
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Back in the day, this would have been quite a nice, comfortable, and fully loaded boat! This Bayliner has it all: a head, galley, cabins, and all the other nautical terminology, but for now, it fits my terminology of “Rotting in Style”. </div>
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That’s all for this one. I do have more footage and pictures from the Alaska, Gabel, and Retro collections, as well as some one-offs, so be prepared! </div>
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If you want to see more random vehicles that haven’t driven, or float... floated... haven’t been floating in years, then come on back, and don’t forget to check us out on <a href="https://twitter.com/TheRandomAuto">Twitter</a> and <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Random-Automotive/381108308725729?ref=hl">Facebook</a> for some exclusive content. Make sure you head on over and subscribe to the <a href="http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=dbproductioncompany">YouTube channel</a> for the best of all this content. Well, at least in my opinion. Thanks for stopping by!<br />
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DB Production Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08129382091940965179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8973567520705071273.post-57290197505675888312019-12-23T13:02:00.001-05:002023-01-22T11:25:34.065-05:00Abandoned 1980s Subaru GL Wagon<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It has been a long, long time, but I have another abandoned car for you. A mid 1980s Subaru GL in Ketchikan, Alaska. Now, this was filmed in 2014 on my cell phone, so please bear with me. It has been a while since I have done one of these, because sometimes these posts do well, and sometimes they don’t.</div>
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Honestly, I’m trying to figure out what drives the most traffic here, and what you guys like the most. Regardless... Here she is! I don’t know the exact year, but definitely mid 80s due to the grill, bumper, and shifter. I’m also no expert, but this GL seems as if it has wheels from the DL.<br />
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This car has an automatic transmission which would lead me to believe that it is a 4-speed, and probably has the 1.8L four-cylinder. If that’s the case, it makes around 82 horse power, but has four wheel drive! That would be a huge help in the winters of Alaska, but I can’t imagine the 82 horse power is. However, that does get you around 33 miles per gallon. I don’t image that this car ever took advantage of that because road trips really aren’t a thing in Alaska.<br />
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This is one of the newer cars that I’ve featured, but it is abandoned for sure. It sits next to an <a href="http://www.therandomautomotive.com/2014/12/rotting-in-style-1974-pontiac-ventura.html">abandoned 1974 Pontiac Ventura</a>. You know it’s abandoned, because in Alaska, anything that sits still (and some things that move slowly) have moss on it. And I mean everything. Rust has taken over some parts as well.<br />
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The interior looks like it’s in decent shape. Just a bit dirty.</div>
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It looks like the last time this car was registered was in 2002, which was 12 years after I filmed this.</div>
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Sorry it’s been a while for those of you who like Rotting in Style. I’ll try to get more out as I still have quite a bit of footage, and I have a growing Google Maps spotting list of where I can find more. </div>
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If you want to see more cars like this, then stay tuned and don’t forget to check us out on <a href="https://twitter.com/TheRandomAuto">Twitter</a> and <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Random-Automotive/381108308725729?ref=hl">Facebook</a> for some exclusive content. </div>
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DB Production Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08129382091940965179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8973567520705071273.post-82903919121570975642019-07-08T20:37:00.002-04:002023-01-22T11:25:45.149-05:00How To Replace Your Battery Terminal Clamps<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZZBxgJiNxa4/XSPfyDQigWI/AAAAAAAABuI/GAbni4Zac2A-DQjD1u2K7Qsl06inQKK2ACLcBGAs/s1600/BatteryTerminalClamps_CoverFBS.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="how to replace battery terminal clamps dylan benson random automotive " border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="940" height="302" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZZBxgJiNxa4/XSPfyDQigWI/AAAAAAAABuI/GAbni4Zac2A-DQjD1u2K7Qsl06inQKK2ACLcBGAs/s640/BatteryTerminalClamps_CoverFBS.jpg" title="" width="570" /></a></div>
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If the battery terminal clamps on your car are cracked, worn, or don’t tighten all the way anymore, it’s probably time to replace them. Don’t worry! It’s cheap and easy to do with only a few tools that are essential to have for many DIY projects, and about ten minutes of your time.</div>
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Tools you need:</h3>
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<li>Ratchet</li>
<li>Sockets (whatever size fits your old and new terminal clamps)</li>
<li>Snips or wire cutters</li>
<li>Wire strippers (or a knife)</li>
<li>Sand paper</li>
<li>Your new clamps </li>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HRhM65eJ5nE/XSPfxNJVxJI/AAAAAAAABuQ/vrb8NvZwGFQZA6QQ0f-XJGdmOSUOispMQCEwYBhgL/s1600/BatteryTerminalClamps_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="how to replace battery terminal clamps dylan benson random automotive tin snips wire cutters wire strippers" border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HRhM65eJ5nE/XSPfxNJVxJI/AAAAAAAABuQ/vrb8NvZwGFQZA6QQ0f-XJGdmOSUOispMQCEwYBhgL/s400/BatteryTerminalClamps_1.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>I will say again that these tools are a must have for any DIYer</b>.</div>
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<b>First</b>, disconnect your battery clamps form the battery. Loosen the bolt holding them on, or just pull them off if they are very loose. Be careful not to touch the positive and negative terminals of the battery at the same time, or you will become a conductor of electricity! </div>
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<b>Second</b>, use your snips or wire cutters and cut off the clamp currently on your battery wire. If you have non factory clamps on there already, loosen any bolts that may be holding the wire instead of cutting the wire. Some batter cables may be thick with thick wire inside. It may take some force to get through. If you have any smaller wires coming out of your old clamps, cut them off too. Make sure you remember which wires were positive and which were negative. To avoid confusion, I would suggest doing one full wire at a time. </div>
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<b>Third</b>, you need to remove some of the insulation (the rubber around the wires inside) to expose some fresh wires to make a good connection in your new clamp. Place the cut wire in your clamp to see how much insulation you have to cut off. Once you made the correct measurement, either use a wire stripper or knife to remove the correct amount of insulation.</div>
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Be careful if you use a knife. Thicker battery cable has thicker wires inside, so you usually won’t damage them wire a knife. If you have a smaller auxiliary cable, I would suggest a stripper or being extremely careful with a knife as the wires inside are generally much thinner.<br />
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<b>Fourth</b>, take some sand paper and scuff up the exposed wire. Even though it was under the insulation, the outside of the wire may have tarnished. That will give you a poor connection.<br />
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<b>Fifth</b>: After the wire(s) is nice and shiny, place it in the new clamp and tighten the bolts firmly. If you have a smaller wire too, place it in there as well before tightening the bolts. Give the clamp and cable a good tug to make sure they don’t come apart easily.<br />
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<b>Sixth</b>: Take more sand paper and clean the battery terminals (on the actual battery). You want a good, clean connection for your new clamps.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dr696-Grkz4/XSPfx0zinVI/AAAAAAAABuc/sx_9JPb-QrwUTn9Bb5D7khrmjoZ3rcWFwCEwYBhgL/s1600/BatteryTerminalClamps_5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="how to replace battery terminal clamps dylan benson random automotive cleaning battery terminals" border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dr696-Grkz4/XSPfx0zinVI/AAAAAAAABuc/sx_9JPb-QrwUTn9Bb5D7khrmjoZ3rcWFwCEwYBhgL/s400/BatteryTerminalClamps_5.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Finally</b>, put your new clamps over the terminals and tighten them down! </div>
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With these basic tools, you can get this done in about ten minutes. It’s simple, easy, and safe to do at home! Start up your car, and enjoy a good connection with your battery! </div>
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If you want to learn more about car care, make sure you head on over and subscribe to our <a href="http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=dbproductioncompany">YouTube channel</a>. Don’t forget to like us on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Random-Automotive/381108308725729?ref=hl">Facebook</a>, and be sure to follow us on <a href="https://twitter.com/TheRandomAuto">Twitter</a> for some exclusive content! Thanks for stopping by. </div>
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DB Production Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08129382091940965179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8973567520705071273.post-13625402612794663222019-06-01T10:13:00.003-04:002023-01-22T11:25:56.124-05:00How To Inspect Your Car<meta property="og:url" content="http://bit.ly/InspectingYourCar" />
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If you take care of your car, it will take care of you. But how do you know what to look for? YouTube viewer Goon Squad Skateboarding wanted to know just that. Here is a list of things that you should look for when you inspect your car.</div>
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Tires</h2>
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The condition of your tires are directly related to the condition of your life. There are four important things to look at: tread depth, tread wear, pressure, and dry rot. Seriously... if your tires are not in good shape and they fail while you’re driving, you could die.</div>
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Tire tread is the pattern on outside of your tire. It is designed to give you traction by gripping on to the road, and pushing away water when the roads are wet. “Bald” tires (tires without or with low tread) will have little to no traction. It’s especially noticeable when driving in the rain. If you are in the US, take a penny and put Lincoln’s head in the tread. If you can see his whole head, you need new tires. A tire tread gauge is your best option.</div>
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Tread goes down over time, and it should do it evenly. If the outsides of your tires have less tread, or vise versa, you may have an alignment issue that needs to be addressed. It could also be under or over filled tires. Low pressure tires also kill your gas mileage. On the driver side door jamb, there should be a label that says what pressure (PSI) your tires should be at. Check them with a gauge, and if it’s under, go to your local gas station that has air and fill them up!</div>
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Dry rot is extremely dangerous. When rubber gets old, it cracks. Tires need to flex and bend, and if the rubber gets old and starts to crack, it could violently explode. If you see dry rotted tires, replace them right away.</div>
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Brakes</h2>
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While we are talking about tires, let’s cover some stuff about brakes. You’ll want to inspect your brake pads and rotors, listen for squeaks when driving, and brake pedal strength. We’ll cover brake fluid in the fluid section.</div>
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Brake pads can partially be inspected visually, but you really need to know what to look for. One way to check is to listen for squeaking when you brake. That usually means your pads are starting to get low. If you hear scraping, your pads are done. This will make stopping harder, and it could damage your rotors.</div>
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Inspect your rotors for any uneven wear. If you see scratches or grooves around the outside or inside, you may have an issue. When you brake, does your pedal have to go all the way to the floor? That’s not supposed to happen.</div>
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Fluid Levels</h2>
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In my Car Basics <a href="http://www.therandomautomotive.com/2015/01/car-parts-engine-bay.html">What’s Under the Hood</a> post, I cover what all of the reservoirs under your hood are for. For level purposes, each one has a “MAX” and “MIN” level. Make sure your fluid is between those lines. Add more if needed, but read the labels carefully, because some things like coolant should only be added and checked when the car is cold. Check the ones you filled periodically. If they are low again, you have a leak.</div>
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Leaks</h2>
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Leaks are not fun, but are part of owning a car. Leaks can be cheap or very expensive to fix. Look under your hood around your engine. Do you see or smell anything strange? Look under your car. Do you see anything besides water from your air conditioning? If you think you might have a leak, place a piece of cardboard under your car over night. If it’s wet, you have a leak. Here are some common fluids with their usual colors and smells. </div>
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Lights</h2>
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Lights are extremely important to other drivers and need to be replaced the moment they are out! Check them! They are cheap are easy to replace. It is illegal and dangerous to drive with any lights being out. Here are your lights and how to test them. Note that in some cases your headlights and high beams might be one bulb. The same can happen with your tail lights and your blinkers and brake lights. This is known as a dual filament bulb. </div>
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<li>Headlights: Turn them on and look at each one </li>
<li>High Beams: Turn them on and look at each one </li>
<li>Tail lights: Turn on your headlights, and check your tail lights </li>
<li>Blinkers and Hazard Lights: They are the same bulbs, so turn on your hazard lights and check all four (or more) </li>
<li>Side Markers: Turn on your headlight or parking lights and check them </li>
<li>Brake Lights: Have someone hold down your brake pedal, or put something on the pedal, and go check the lights. This includes your third brake light! </li>
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Driveability</h2>
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For the last few things, you need to be driving. Do you notice any squeaks, rattles, or other noises? Does your engine misfire or sputter? Do you need to have your steering wheel off to one side to make your car drive straight? Any vibrations over a certain speed, when you idle, or when you brake? These are all things that are not normal, and you should take your car to a mechanic before things get worse.</div>
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Conclusion</h2>
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Depending on how much you drive your car, I recommended looking at all of this stuff at least every quarter. Some things may need to be checked more frequently if you are having an issues. Cars are fun and they are convenient, but you need to take care of them. Take care of them, and they will take care of you.</div>
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If you want to learn more about car care, make sure you head on over and subscribe to our <a href="http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=dbproductioncompany">YouTube channel</a>. Don’t forget to like us on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Random-Automotive/381108308725729?ref=hl">Facebook</a>, and be sure to follow us on <a href="https://twitter.com/TheRandomAuto">Twitter</a> for some exclusive content! Thanks for stopping by.</div>
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DB Production Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08129382091940965179noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8973567520705071273.post-18808174160027160292019-05-19T19:45:00.001-04:002023-01-22T11:26:13.256-05:00My Transmission Broke, Again...
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A while back, I had the dreaded Ford transmission issue where the transmission eats itself apart. The housing is aluminum, and while that makes the transmission much lighter, it also makes it much weaker. The housing wore out from the inside, and my Mustang started slipping out of gear.</div>
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I had it taken to a recommended shop to be rebuilt. Not only were the internals replaced, but there was a metal band added to the inside of the housing to stop the issue from happening again. That is the official fix for that problem.</div>
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The car ran fine, but almost right away I noticed a bit of a delay when I first put the car in drive. Sometimes it seemed like the car was in third or fourth. It would rev up when I pressed on the gas, and then eventually softly engage. It didn’t happen all the time. A little bit later, I started to notice a whine in first and second. </div>
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I took it back, as it was still under warranty from the first rebuild. I was told the planetary gears (which were new parts they put in) were worn out. They replaced them and the torque converter, since metal shavings got inside.</div>
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When I got the car back, she pulled hard! Shifted well, lots of power, no delayed engagement. All was well.</div>
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Two days later, I got in my car and started to drive out of my complex. All was fine, and the car never needed to get out of second. When reached the longer road out to enter the main road, I noticed that when the car should have shifted to third, the RPMs kept climbing and climbing. Eventually, it slipped out of gear and revved up pretty damn high.</div>
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Hoping it was a fluke, I pulled out onto the main road and the same thing happened. When I got to a red light, I put the car in park, then drive again. Now nothing at all! Reverse worked, but there were cars behind me. Finally drive worked, and I made a U-turn and took it back home.</div>
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Guess I’ll have to take it back again. Here is a video of when I got home that night testing it out. I had to borrow someone else’s car for the day. What kind of car problems are you having?</div>
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If you want to read more about how my vehicles are falling apart, make sure you head on over and subscribe to our <a href="http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=dbproductioncompany">YouTube channel</a>. Don’t forget to like us on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Random-Automotive/381108308725729?ref=hl">Facebook</a>, and be sure to follow us on <a href="https://twitter.com/TheRandomAuto">Twitter</a> for some exclusive content! Thanks for stopping by.</div>
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I drive a lot, and I've seen some stupid things that people do on the roads. Pull to the Right Syndrome (PTR Syndrome) is real, and it will cause accidents.<br />
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On roadways where there are two or more lanes that's turn left, bad things tend to happen. All too frequently, people always seem to want to get into the far right lane after turning left, even if they are in the far left lane to start.<br />
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PTR Syndrome is when people expect others next to them to do this as well, or just don't pay attention and pull to the right.<br />
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I generally put myself in the farthest lane to the right before I turn, because I usually find myself needing to go the right. If I'm in the middle lane, I hold my place in that lane. When I turn left, I stay in that lane.<br />
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There are countless times (especially when there are three turn lanes) when the person to the left will almost crash into me, because I hold my position in the center lane, which I am legally supposed to do. They expect me to pull to the right.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Bo0VlSvPYk8/XMuEva78OpI/AAAAAAAABqo/m_N9WHFLkz0FyPHf2ApIqZsVT6Z2h3QbQCEwYBhgL/s1600/PTr_GoodBad_Final.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="pull to the right syndrome dylan benson the random automotive how to turn left " border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Bo0VlSvPYk8/XMuEva78OpI/AAAAAAAABqo/m_N9WHFLkz0FyPHf2ApIqZsVT6Z2h3QbQCEwYBhgL/s400/PTr_GoodBad_Final.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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Frequently they do this without even signaling. This is not only extremely dangerous, but an illegal lane change. You must use your <a href="https://www.13newsnow.com/article/news/verify-what-do-you-legally-have-to-do-to-change-lanes/463036552">signal when changing lanes</a>. It is not optional.<br />
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If you have Pull to the Right Syndrome, there are things you can do. One, pay attention. Also, put down your damn phone and watch the road. Stop making stupid assumptions. Not everyone is going to be doing what you want or expect them to do.<br />
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There are rules and laws. Driving is a privilege. Respect it and pay attention. The disease is curable, and it starts with you.<br />
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Want to know about new medical discoveries? Make sure you head on over and subscribe to our <a href="http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=dbproductioncompany">YouTube channel</a>. Don’t forget to like us on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Random-Automotive/381108308725729?ref=hl">Facebook</a>, and be sure to follow us on <a href="https://twitter.com/TheRandomAuto">Twitter</a> for some exclusive content!<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a1Loe57cWpw/XMhKdk-Bn9I/AAAAAAAABp0/_rbIrHkRRg4xAAo6jbWXPHP7tqxElnGNQCEwYBhgL/s1600/NewDefender_Cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="New Land Rover Defender Dylan Benson Random Automotive" border="0" data-original-height="501" data-original-width="1150" height="247" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a1Loe57cWpw/XMhKdk-Bn9I/AAAAAAAABp0/_rbIrHkRRg4xAAo6jbWXPHP7tqxElnGNQCEwYBhgL/s640/NewDefender_Cover.jpg" title="" width="570" /></a></div>
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If you’ve followed us on social media, you know we work with Winter Park Paint and Collision and the Badass Body Shop on Safari HP’s custom Land Rover Defenders. That was a mouth-full, I know. Part of the prestige was the fact that Defenders were no longer made. After about 68 years of making the iconic boxy SUV that served military and civilians all over the world, Jaguar Land Rover <a href="https://www.quora.com/Why-did-Land-Rover-stop-production-of-the-Defender">stopped production of the Defender</a> due to new emission standards set in place by the European Union (ironic now).
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Well, the Defender is coming back, but its British blood is being transplanted to Slovakia. After two million had been made in the UK, the <a href="https://www.bbc.com/news/business-48103070">BBC reports</a> “The new Defender will be built at the company's one billion pound (about $1.3 billion) plant in Nitra in Slovakia, which opened in October 2018.”
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<a href="https://www.bbc.com/news/business-48103070">James Attwood of Autocar Magazine</a> says that it is still very much a British design, and that the engines will still be made in the UK.
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However, some members over on the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/1660535120827026/">Land Rover Defender Group on Facebook</a> have voiced their opinion on the design saying that it looks like a simplified Discovery or a Ford Explorer. Others voiced their concern about its off-road capabilities. Surely those concerns have merit since most SUVs today seem to be designed for soccer moms to drive on freshly paved roads and maybe on some grass if the parking lot is full.<br />
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However, <a href="https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2019-04-30/land-rover-s-new-defender-hits-kenya-for-tests-in-tough-terrain">Bloomberg reports</a> that the new Defender prototypes are being tested in the Borana Conservancy located in Kenya. They appear to be doing some pretty heavy rock crawling, but are also testing heavy load towing and river crossing. Engineering Director Nick Rogers assures us that this new Defender will be “the toughest and most capable Land Rover ever made.” Which I guess is why they have #BEST4X4XFAR on the side of the prototypes.
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GZQDf6CtdSs/XMhMJJ3eqRI/AAAAAAAABqI/5zMve1OPmNsB30mydfQPDwVfiE5px9FjQCLcBGAs/s1600/Defender%2B%25283%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="New Land Rover Defender Dylan Benson Random Automotive" border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GZQDf6CtdSs/XMhMJJ3eqRI/AAAAAAAABqI/5zMve1OPmNsB30mydfQPDwVfiE5px9FjQCLcBGAs/s400/Defender%2B%25283%2529.jpg" title="" width="400" /> </a></div>
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What do you think? Will this new Land Rover defend its title? Let us know in the comments below! Like what you see? Make sure you head on over and subscribe to our <a href="http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=dbproductioncompany">YouTube channel</a>. Don’t forget to like us on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Random-Automotive/381108308725729?ref=hl">Facebook</a>, and be sure to follow us on <a href="https://twitter.com/TheRandomAuto">Twitter</a> for some exclusive content!<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z9dnFbt-s98/XMhMJdGXstI/AAAAAAAABqQ/CXPH48UOOdkNcb19k0TSMr0pD1q-6ri7gCEwYBhgL/s1600/Defender%2B%25284%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="New Land Rover Defender Dylan Benson Random Automotive" border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z9dnFbt-s98/XMhMJdGXstI/AAAAAAAABqQ/CXPH48UOOdkNcb19k0TSMr0pD1q-6ri7gCEwYBhgL/s400/Defender%2B%25284%2529.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IgxWlNfhZag/XMhMJDVJ3ZI/AAAAAAAABqE/tPJQSP2Lp_UrVOrN3Mz-PLwaqLCR3RJXgCEwYBhgL/s1600/Defender%2B%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="New Land Rover Defender Dylan Benson Random Automotive" border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IgxWlNfhZag/XMhMJDVJ3ZI/AAAAAAAABqE/tPJQSP2Lp_UrVOrN3Mz-PLwaqLCR3RJXgCEwYBhgL/s400/Defender%2B%25282%2529.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All images courtesy of Autoblog.</td></tr>
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DB Production Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08129382091940965179noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8973567520705071273.post-9497949595836769472018-11-13T18:53:00.002-05:002023-01-22T11:26:54.006-05:00Using Naval Jelly on a Rusty Car<div style="text-align: justify;">
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Cars get rusty as time goes on. They are made of metal, so it’s as simple as that. Unless you are driving a <a href="http://www.therandomautomotive.com/2015/08/rotting-in-style-1980-amc-eagle.html">1980 AMC Eagle</a>, it will happen to you. You have probably seen my 1971 Ford Torino 500 before if you have read this blog. If not, go check it out! It’s very rusty. Now, I do co-own a body shop, but for some strange reason, I decided to try to do everything at home by hand.</div>
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Sanding sort of worked, but I wanted to give Naval Jelly a try. You’re supposed to brush it on, and in five to ten minutes, rinse it off and the rust is gone. I have looked to see if anyone has used this on a car before. Many people have used it on small car parts and small sections of a car, but never large panels or parts of a car. So, I did.</div>
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I tested it out on a portion of the roof and part of the gas tank in the trunk. I left the first coat on for about 20 minutes. It did something. There was an outline where the product was, and that area was lighter. Now, this rust is pretty nasty. It’s deep, and has pitted the metal.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UugYSp1Hj_s/W-ti4Q1WmNI/AAAAAAAABnQ/UVkgtxX9yQ44J8lzH3TEHQ-nAuRMoUCrQCEwYBhgL/s1600/NavalJelly2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="naval jelly on a rusty car 1971 ford torino safe rust removal how to remove rust" border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UugYSp1Hj_s/W-ti4Q1WmNI/AAAAAAAABnQ/UVkgtxX9yQ44J8lzH3TEHQ-nAuRMoUCrQCEwYBhgL/s400/NavalJelly2.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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I decided to try another coat, but after hitting it with a wire brush and cleaning the area with acetone. After the second coat, the area got lighter again. So I followed the same steps: apply, sit, rise, wire brush, acetone, repeat.</div>
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Eventually, I started seeing bare metal on the gas tank. Finally! The roof seemed to have exposed an old layer of primer. I wanted to do more, but I unexpectedly had an unrelated issue I had to take care of. So, I just managed to do these smaller sections, but at least I manged to actually see Naval Jelly used on a car!</div>
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All in all, it worked. It wasn’t the most spectacular thing, but with some elbow grease, I would say that it is a good way to get rid of rust. With more time, I could have gotten much more off. Is it better than sanding? Well, sanding helped, but my arm was done by the time I finished. With this, I was feeling much less fatigued. So, I leave that choice up to you.<br />
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Like what you read? Want more tips and tricks? Make sure you head on over and subscribe to our <a href="http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=dbproductioncompany">YouTube channel</a>. Don’t forget to like us on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Random-Automotive/381108308725729?ref=hl">Facebook</a>, and be sure to follow us on <a href="https://twitter.com/TheRandomAuto">Twitter</a> for some exclusive content! Thanks for stopping by.</div>
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DB Production Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08129382091940965179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8973567520705071273.post-32228098370829765772018-09-12T17:23:00.001-04:002023-01-22T11:27:07.878-05:00When You Lock Yourself Out Of Your Car<div style="text-align: justify;">
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Well... I never thought it would happen to me, but I managed to lock myself out of my car. After about 20 minutes of trying with a wire hanger, I remembered the giant rust hole in my floors. The rest is history. Take a look at the video. How many have you been here before? Let me know your stories in the comment section.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qqML5S9v-UI/W46O7yjC2oI/AAAAAAAABlk/veb6dg4kFIUmzDtUwzzbDYzmC54d8pZyQCLcBGAs/s1600/Roadkill_BlogCover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="roadkill motortrend on demand i will not pay the random automotive" border="0" data-original-height="528" data-original-width="1280" height="247" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qqML5S9v-UI/W46O7yjC2oI/AAAAAAAABlk/veb6dg4kFIUmzDtUwzzbDYzmC54d8pZyQCLcBGAs/s640/Roadkill_BlogCover.jpg" title="" width="570" /></a></div>
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If you’ve seen this blog before, you probably have seen a few episodes of MotorTrend’s show Roadkill. It’s about two guys, David Freiburger and Mike Finnegan of Hot Rod Network, who build unique automotive creations and put those rides to the test. Road trips, dirt tracks, and so on. </div>
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As a fan of the American version of Top Gear, I fell in love with this show from the very beginning. It was one of MotorTrend’s most popular shows on YouTube when Angus MacKenzie announced that the channel would be bringing out new content. Roadkill soared in popularity. The episode “<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rArpyMXT2ew">Rat Rod VS Lamborghini Aventador</a>” has over 53 million views (the channel’s second highest viewed video). They also have 1.4 million followers on their Facebook page. </div>
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Well, MotorTrend changed. They stopped putting full content on their YouTube channel, and now have everything over at their own platform call <a href="https://www.motortrendondemand.com/">MotorTrend On Demand</a> (MTOD), which is a platform you have to pay for. I get it. As someone on YouTube myself, YouTube changed a lot recently, and it hurt a bunch of people. The problem is, it really hurt the little people. MotorTrend has 5.8 million subscribers. I assume they felt something too, and probably didn’t have as much creative control over the ads that they wanted. </div>
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MotorTrend On Demand was releasing the most current episode of Roadkill for free, and then when the next one was out, they would lock the previous one. I am the kind of person that has to watch things in order, even if it’s not needed. So, from the very beginning, I never missed one episode. Well, I missed one one day before it got locked. I haven’t watched one since. If this was something I paid for from the beginning, that would be a different story, but this was a change after years.</div>
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I’m all about what something is worth. I do believe the price is fair, but not when it always used to be free. Foe reference, the price is currently $4.99 per month. It’s a principle thing.</div>
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Any time a preview video is shown on YouTube, the subscribers vent and tell their frustration. Same with ads on Facebook. They only place that seems to be tolerable of MTOD are more of the people who like the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/RoadkillShow/?ref=br_rs">Roadkill Facebook page</a>.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of their ads on Facebook for MTOD.</td></tr>
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Roadkill helped me get through rough times. You know: life. We all have our ups and downs. Well, when I had downs, Roadkill would ALWAYS get me to laugh. Between the way Freiburger and Finnegan interact with each other, to the way their cars always break. I would always have the biggest smile on my face. I guess I won’t any more. </div>
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I know I’m just being cheap, but when the expectation is set that Roadkill will always be free, you expect that. </div>
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Like this kind of content? Make sure you head on over and subscribe to our <a href="http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=dbproductioncompany">YouTube channel</a>. Don’t forget to like us on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Random-Automotive/381108308725729?ref=hl">Facebook</a>, and be sure to follow us on <a href="https://twitter.com/TheRandomAuto">Twitter</a>. It’s free… Thanks for stopping by!<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ldOGFF5FmeM/W42AeoNGKtI/AAAAAAAABlA/U5OueEzsl18Mi1QnUcbNU_oyy0WFHFKGQCEwYBhgL/s1600/1967Plymouth_BlogCover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="1967 Plymouth Belvedere II abandoned skagway alaska rotting in styel" border="0" data-original-height="528" data-original-width="1280" height="245" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ldOGFF5FmeM/W42AeoNGKtI/AAAAAAAABlA/U5OueEzsl18Mi1QnUcbNU_oyy0WFHFKGQCEwYBhgL/s640/1967Plymouth_BlogCover.jpg" title="" width="570" /></a></div>
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I haven’t made a Rotting in Style post in a while, but Alaska is always on my mind. Four years ago, I was walking around the streets of the small town Skagway, Alaska, my favorite place ever. I came across this in someone’s driveway. </div>
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This is a 1967 Plymouth Belvedere II. It really caught my attention for two reasons: its condition and the fact that it reminded me of the car the bad guys drove in the 1997 movie Dukes of Hazard Reunion, which was one of my favorite childhood movies. I’m still not sure what car that was.</div>
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I can’t tell you much about this car. I don’t know what engine it had, the history behind it, or anything like that. This was just a random find that I walked onto someone’s property to film.</div>
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It is missing the trim on the side, but what I can be sure it does have is one hubcap, lots of rust, and moss. Moss grows on every abandoned car that I’ve seen in Alaska. It has a V8 badge on the hood, but they only offered V8s in this car: a 273, 383, 318, 340, or 426. Being a four door, I would assume it has one of the smaller ones. </div>
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<i>Another car full of moss: <a href="http://www.therandomautomotive.com/2015/01/rotting-in-style-1979-el-camino.html">Abandoned 1979 El Camino</a> </i></div>
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The exterior had plenty of surface rust. There was a pretty big gash on the passenger side of the car. The interior was average for a car of its age. I don’t know when the last time it was driven. Based off the moss, dirt, and other signs, it looks like it has been sitting for a while. It’s not the most iconic car, but perhaps that makes it even more interesting to see sitting abandoned. </div>
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It was raining quite a bit that day, but it didn’t stop me from having a good day, and enjoying the amazing sights that Alaska had to offer, including this old school American steel, which remains Rotting in Style. I have plenty of other Rotting in Style videos and posts for you the check out on my blog and <a href="http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=dbproductioncompany">YouTube channel</a>, and there are more to come. Don’t forget to like us on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Random-Automotive/381108308725729?ref=hl">Facebook</a>, and be sure to follow us on <a href="https://twitter.com/TheRandomAuto">Twitter</a>. Thanks for stopping by! </div>
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DB Production Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08129382091940965179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8973567520705071273.post-60732723214924033112018-06-03T11:12:00.001-04:002023-01-22T11:27:47.798-05:00Should You Change Your Oil Yourself?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I’m just a hobbyist, but I consider myself a car guy. Due to that, I usually get a lot of flack for not changing my own oil, and taking it to a shop and getting it done. Why do I do it? Cost and time. I always have to end up defending myself. Here’s why it’s okay to get it done.</div>
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Let me start by saying that I do know how to change my oil. I believe that everyone should know how to do it for his or her car. The principle is the same for all vehicles, but there are little things that can differ from one vehicle to the next. It’s a great skill to have, but I’ve realized that it’s not always needed.</div>
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Cost is a big thing for me to take into consideration. I am cheap. Most people say that changing your own yourself is cheaper. For me, I have found that to not be the case. For my 2005 Mustang, I just use standard oil. I use what Ford says I should. There is a Firestone Complete Auto Care by me that I always use a coupon for. I can get it done for around $23. </div>
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Time is also a big factor to think about. With the amount I drive, I have to get an oil change about every three to four months. Not only do I have to change it more frequently then I would like, I also work for about eight companies. I work every day. As of writing this, I’ve had about five days off this year. Do the math: that’s less than one day off per month. Every minute that I can work, I take advantage of it. If I’m under my car worrying about oil, I can’t work. For me, that’s not good.</div>
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Weather is big. In Florida, I would rather not be under my car in 114 degrees (as it was last year. With humidity.) Sitting inside the lobby of an air conditioned (or heated if you’re in a northern winter) is a much better idea. </div>
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Again, I will stress that it is important to know how to change your oil. It is on the top five of the most basic maintenance things you need to know how to do on your car. However, I have found it more convenient to not do it myself. </div>
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What to read more reassuring stuff like this? Make sure you head on over and subscribe to our <a href="http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=dbproductioncompany">YouTube channel</a>. Don’t forget to like us on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Random-Automotive/381108308725729?ref=hl">Facebook</a>, and be sure to follow us on <a href="https://twitter.com/TheRandomAuto">Twitter</a> for some exclusive content! Thanks for stopping by. <br />
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crossorigin="anonymous"></script>DB Production Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08129382091940965179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8973567520705071273.post-66978074892375435692018-05-13T16:18:00.003-04:002023-01-22T11:27:59.276-05:00How To Change Your Spark Plugs<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Changing your spark plugs is a very important part of vehicle maintenance. Depending on where they are located in your vehicle, they can be rather easy to do. Spark plugs deliver the park that ignites the fuel and air mixture in your engine. Over time, these can get fouled and degrade. If they don’t deliver the spark that your engine needs, your engine may begin to misfire, and that’s not good.
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If you have OEM (standard/stock) spark plugs in your car, then consult your manual or dealer to determine when they should be changed. If they are aftermarket ones, check with the manufacturer.</div>
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When it comes to actually changing them, if you have a very compact engine bay, they may be challenging to get to. If you can’t get to all of them, I would suggest taking your car to a mechanic. You don’t want to run the risk of potentially damaging the threads of your engine block if you try to yank one out the wrong way. </div>
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All that aside, if you can reach them all, it’s simple. Here is what you need:</div>
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<li>Ratchet</li>
<li>Spark plug socket </li>
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The most important thing to remember is going one by one. Your car has a very specific firing order (the order which the spark plugs get their spark). That may not be in sequential order. You can do a quick Google search to find out your car’s firing order is. </div>
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Start with a plug located at one side/end, and work your way down if it’s an inline engine, or down and around if it’s a “V” engine (V6, V8, etc.) This just helps keep things in order. </div>
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Grab the boot of your spark plug wire (the end attached to the spark plug), and pull it. You may need to wiggle it a little. It will “pop” off. This will expose the plug. Fit your socket around the plug, and begin loosening it. It may be firm at first, but it will free up. Depending on how much room you have to move the ratchet, it may take quite a few turns. </div>
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Once it is out, discard it, and get your new plug. You should start threading it into the engine block by hand. This will help prevent cross-threading, which can cause some serious damage. After a couple turns, use your socket to finish the job. DO NOT over-tighten it. Get it firm, but not wrenched down. Take the boot of your previously disconnected spark plug wire, and push it down on the spark plug. It should “pop” into place. </div>
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Repeat this for the rest of your plugs. Again, go one by one to not mess up the order. Once you are done, start up your car. It should run like normal. If it is rough, turn off the car and push down on all the wires to make sure they are firmly seated on the plugs. Confirm that the wires are running to the correct spark plug by checking are firing order diagram. </div>
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There you have it! You’re done. See? I told you it wasn’t that bad. If you are more of a visual learner, check out the video below. What to see more stuff like this? Make sure you head on over and subscribe to our <a href="http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=dbproductioncompany">YouTube channel</a>. Don’t forget to like us on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Random-Automotive/381108308725729?ref=hl">Facebook</a>, and be sure to follow us on <a href="https://twitter.com/TheRandomAuto">Twitter</a> for some exclusive content! Thanks for stopping by. </div>
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DB Production Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08129382091940965179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8973567520705071273.post-80018322504691325012018-03-20T15:50:00.001-04:002023-01-22T11:28:15.363-05:00Ultimate Tune-Up<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BIQ0uHita5w/WrFk_0i0MmI/AAAAAAAABgc/r0XKyd62TNUyrZRC1CoQ_dteWiuadKDbwCLcBGAs/s1600/TuneUp_BlogCover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="how to tune up yoru car clean throttle body clean maf run like new the random automotive" border="0" data-original-height="528" data-original-width="1280" height="247" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BIQ0uHita5w/WrFk_0i0MmI/AAAAAAAABgc/r0XKyd62TNUyrZRC1CoQ_dteWiuadKDbwCLcBGAs/s640/TuneUp_BlogCover.jpg" title="" width="570" /></a></div>
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It’s an unfortunate fact of a car’s life that when it gets old, it gets worst. Sometimes it’s obvious when something breaks, but other times it’s harder to tell when it simply doesn’t run the way it used to. For a couple bucks, and few minutes of your time, you can make your car run almost like new again.</div>
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You don’t need any advanced mechanical skills. All you need to do is buy some specific cleaners, a couple tools (that you probably have most of already), and just a few minutes of your time. Yes, you can make your car run so much better that cheaply, and in about 30 minutes. Here’s how…</div>
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First off, if you’re new to vehicles and not exactly sure where parts are, check out The Random Automotive’s guide: <a href="http://www.therandomautomotive.com/2015/01/car-parts-engine-bay.html">Car Basics – What’s Under the Hood</a>.</div>
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Fuel System/Injector Cleaner</h3>
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As time goes on, deposits can build up in your fuel system, including your fuel injectors. Fuel injectors are what spray the correct amount of gas into your engine, which is then ignited by the spark plugs. Injectors are expensive, so it is best to take care of them. Taking care of them also allows your engine to receive the correct amount of fuel that it needs.</div>
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At any auto parts store, or even Walmart, you can find a fuel system cleaner. I picked Gumout, but a very popular brand is also Seafoam. Seafoam takes bit more effort, so take note of that. Follow all instructions on the bottle. Basically what it comes down to is to run your gas tank to nearly empty, empty the correct amount of cleaner into your gas tank, and then fill up. It should help break up carbon deposits in your engine, and clean your injectors.</div>
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Change your Air Filter</h3>
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For you to live, you have to breathe. Your car is no different. Your engine pulls in air through its intake system, that air is mixed with the fuel from your injectors, and your sparkplugs ignite the mixture. The first part of the intake system is your air filter.</div>
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This is generally located in your airbox. You can check your manual or online to find out where it is in your vehicle. If your filter is brown and covered in leaves, it’s time to change it. It’s only a couple bucks at your local auto parts store, and it’s simply a matter of pulling the old one out and putting the new one in. Your car needs clean air, like you.<br />
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Clean your Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF)</h3>
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Now things get a bit more “mechanical,” but are still very easy. Your mass airflow sensor is located after your air filter in your intake tube. It’s made of some electronic components that read and measure the air coming in. Based off those readings, it will tell the engine how to run: how much fuel, idle speed, and so on. So, if this gets dirty, you could get false readings, and your car may not run as well.</div>
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For a couple bucks, you can pick up some MAF cleaner. Locate your sensor in your intake tube. Normally it either splits your tube into two pieces, or is something that is stuck into it. It generally is the only thing directly past your air filter that has an electric connector going to it. Pop that connector off, then unscrew or unclamp it, and carefully remove it. Follow the directions on the can, but you generally spray it down and reinstall it. Be careful not to touch or damage the diodes on the MAF, or your car may not run correctly.</div>
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This will make a world of difference, especially if you’ve never done this before to your car.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-txNxlLFWmGo/WrFlBuIaxuI/AAAAAAAABgk/7PjeaGHm054820qZFzXiHbhbzEeuwjGSQCEwYBhgL/s1600/MAF.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="how to tune up yoru car clean throttle body clean maf run like new the random automotive" border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-txNxlLFWmGo/WrFlBuIaxuI/AAAAAAAABgk/7PjeaGHm054820qZFzXiHbhbzEeuwjGSQCEwYBhgL/s400/MAF.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yoqWx3vS9bk/WrFlBk9NYQI/AAAAAAAABgg/JsbHgIxffnIW_9xP1G5uCXmfzLsrzV12gCEwYBhgL/s1600/MAF2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="how to tune up yoru car clean throttle body clean maf run like new the random automotive" border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yoqWx3vS9bk/WrFlBk9NYQI/AAAAAAAABgg/JsbHgIxffnIW_9xP1G5uCXmfzLsrzV12gCEwYBhgL/s400/MAF2.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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Clean your Throttle Body</h3>
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This is one of the more advanced things we’ll be doing, but it will help a lot. Your throttle body controls how much air actually enters the engine. Inside the body of the throttle body itself is a valve or two that open and close to control the flow of air. Over time, carbon and other grim will form on and around it. This can cause your car to sputter or stall at idle or in park. </div>
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Like everything else, you can pick up throttle body cleaner for a couple bucks. Do not use carburetor cleaner. Unclamp and pull back or remove your intake hose from the throttle body. This will expose the valve. Spray your cleaner onto an old cotton t-shirt. Begin gently wiping down the inside of the housing and the valve. You’ll need to clean the behind and the backside of the valve. Gently push the bottom of the valve to open it. Use your other hand to clean the backside and the rest of the housing behind it. Don’t push too aggressively. Most newer throttle bodies are electronically controlled, and you don't want to damage the motor.</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CCb9jaMbifw/WrFlCMk6LOI/AAAAAAAABgo/bur3B9Qlrb4ONO_uLqoSystMyV2qEsMyQCEwYBhgL/s1600/TB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="how to tune up yoru car clean throttle body clean maf run like new the random automotive" border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CCb9jaMbifw/WrFlCMk6LOI/AAAAAAAABgo/bur3B9Qlrb4ONO_uLqoSystMyV2qEsMyQCEwYBhgL/s400/TB.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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Change your Sparkplugs</h3>
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Sparkplugs are what is responsible for the combustion of your engine. Check your manual as to when they need to be replaced. Replacing them could be simple, or a major pain in the ass depending on where they are located. Make sure you can access each plug before you begin. You will need your new plugs, a ratchet, and sparkplug socket.</div>
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It's a simple as removing your spark plug wire, unscrewing the old plug, putting the new one in, and reinstalling your wire. The biggest thing to make sure of is that you’re putting the wire back on the plug you took it off of. If you don’t, it could mess up your car’s firing order. To make it easy, just replace one at a time.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--3S40IW7ceY/WrFlB0zeo1I/AAAAAAAABgs/RN-T8NATXE4yKwK-2zIo-mI8rrCeNK-1wCEwYBhgL/s1600/Plug.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="how to tune up yoru car clean throttle body clean maf run like new the random automotive" border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--3S40IW7ceY/WrFlB0zeo1I/AAAAAAAABgs/RN-T8NATXE4yKwK-2zIo-mI8rrCeNK-1wCEwYBhgL/s400/Plug.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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So there you have it! For about $20 (minus the cost of the sparkplugs) and about thirty minutes of your time, you can make your car run almost like new again! Going to a shop to do this would probably cost you over $100. Take care of your car, and it will take care of you! </div>
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What to see more stuff like this? Make sure you head on over and subscribe to our <a href="http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=dbproductioncompany">YouTube channel</a>. Don’t forget to like us on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Random-Automotive/381108308725729?ref=hl">Facebook</a>, and be sure to follow us on <a href="https://twitter.com/TheRandomAuto">Twitter</a> for some exclusive content! Thanks for stopping by.</div>
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crossorigin="anonymous"></script>DB Production Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08129382091940965179noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8973567520705071273.post-42675981854218243252018-02-06T09:29:00.001-05:002023-01-22T11:28:28.402-05:00Rotting in Style - 1980 Camaro Z28 Barn Find!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-m24z13oEFSA/Wnm6jHkmZQI/AAAAAAAABf0/KNP9gtnXKZ0Yy2K2Ot9r-KfrbIfkWGlYQCLcBGAs/s1600/1980Z28_BlogCover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="abandoned 1980 camaro z28 barn find atlanta 350 t-tops red random automotive rotting in style" border="0" data-original-height="528" data-original-width="1280" height="247" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-m24z13oEFSA/Wnm6jHkmZQI/AAAAAAAABf0/KNP9gtnXKZ0Yy2K2Ot9r-KfrbIfkWGlYQCLcBGAs/s640/1980Z28_BlogCover.jpg" title="" width="570" /></a></div>
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As always, it’s been a while. Christmas was my first day off in 113 days before having a day off. Since then, I’ve only had about two. Anyway… Since you know I like abandoned cars, you should have guessed I like abandoned buildings too. I love the broken glass, the rust, and decay. <i> </i></div>
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<i><a href="http://www.therandomabandoned.com/">My Abandoned Building Blog: The Random Abandoned</a> </i></div>
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Now, two years ago in was in Atlanta on business. When I’m in a new area, or somewhere I’m only every now and then, I step out of my hotel, pick a direction, and walk. And that is how I found this. You ready? A 1980 Camaro Z28 barn find!<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cSs-sfvt04E/Wnm6jl_devI/AAAAAAAABf8/5e8tOz81wqQwwoBHGbUTmgsVx9Nr8Nu7wCEwYBhgL/s1600/1980Z28_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="abandoned 1980 camaro z28 barn find atlanta 350 t-tops red random automotive rotting in style" border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cSs-sfvt04E/Wnm6jl_devI/AAAAAAAABf8/5e8tOz81wqQwwoBHGbUTmgsVx9Nr8Nu7wCEwYBhgL/s320/1980Z28_2.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MVyhYpNVsX0/Wnm6jsIsPFI/AAAAAAAABf4/Twc_mJu4APIwSl0bNeVnK897zVoSQ05tQCEwYBhgL/s1600/1980Z28_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="abandoned 1980 camaro z28 barn find atlanta 350 t-tops red random automotive rotting in style" border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MVyhYpNVsX0/Wnm6jsIsPFI/AAAAAAAABf4/Twc_mJu4APIwSl0bNeVnK897zVoSQ05tQCEwYBhgL/s320/1980Z28_1.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></div>
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I only had my phone, so excuse the quality of the pictures and videos. I only got the driver side and rear driver side. The building was locked and the only way in was through a half broken window that was right on the edge of a 15 foot drop into bushes that I was already half standing on anyway trying to hold onto the window frame while avoiding the broken glass. It wasn’t exactly fun, but it was entertaining. Does that make sense? </div>
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It was also right on a street, and there were some guys down the road working at another building. I’m a Ford guy, so if this was a Mustang, I’d risk the lacerations. However, it was really sweet to see a barn find. I also figured I had to show it, since you guys have really seemed to like abandoned Camaros in the past. </div>
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<i><a href="http://www.therandomautomotive.com/2015/01/rotting-in-style-1979-chevy-camaro-z28.html">Abandoned 1979 Camaro Z28 in Alaska</a> </i></div>
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This car came with a 350 that made 190 horsepower, which will cause me to say again that I love 80s cars for looks, hate them for the lack of power. Here are some other fun facts about this car: <b> </b></div>
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<b>Facts</b></div>
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45,137 Z28s made in 1980</div>
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¼ mile at 16.4 sec @ 86 mph</div>
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Factory color “red orange” with a tan interior </div>
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So there you have it. A really nice barn find. Now, you have friends that like Camaros, right? Share this post and video with them! Make sure you head on over and subscribe to our <a href="http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=dbproductioncompany">YouTube channel</a>. Don’t forget to like us on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Random-Automotive/381108308725729?ref=hl">Facebook</a>, and be sure to follow us on <a href="https://twitter.com/TheRandomAuto">Twitter</a> for some exclusive content! Thanks for stopping by.<br />
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crossorigin="anonymous"></script>DB Production Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08129382091940965179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8973567520705071273.post-62945841439027300972017-09-18T15:58:00.001-04:002023-01-22T11:28:41.310-05:00Temp Gauge Not Working!<div style="text-align: justify;">
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If you have an older car and your temperature gauge is not working, it’s very easy to determine what’s causing the issue. There are three main parts to the system: the gauge itself, the wire and connector, and the temperature sending unit.</div>
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First, pop off the connector from the temperature sender (located on the engine block) and ground the connector. Stick it onto something in the engine bay that’s metal. I found a stud on my carburetor that worked quite nicely. Get in your car on turn on your auxiliary power (don’t start the engine). You should see the needle on your temperature gauge creep up all the way to hot. If it does, you know that the wire/connector and gauge are good, and your problem is the sender.</div>
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If it does not, check to make sure you have a good ground, and try again. If it still doesn’t work, you know the issue is either the wire/connector or gauge.</div>
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If that’s the case, check your wire and connector. Does the connector look okay? Is the metal inside corroded? Trace the wire for any frays or splits. It can get kind of nasty at this point because you may have to open up your wiring harness to trace the problem.</div>
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If the wire and connector look okay, it may be the gauge. That would be your most expensive and time consuming part to replace, but at least you know where the problem is.</div>
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So there you have it: a quick tech tip for you. To see this all in action, check out the video at the end of this article where I try these steps on my 1971 Ford Torino 500 that’s featured in <a href="http://www.therandomautomotive.com/p/torino-time.html">Torino Time</a>! </div>
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What to see more stuff like this? Make sure you head on over and subscribe to our <a href="http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=dbproductioncompany">YouTube channel</a>. Don’t forget to like us on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Random-Automotive/381108308725729?ref=hl">Facebook</a>, and be sure to follow us on <a href="https://twitter.com/TheRandomAuto">Twitter</a> for some exclusive content! Thanks for stopping by. </div>
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DB Production Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08129382091940965179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8973567520705071273.post-41035684201265530492017-07-21T11:20:00.001-04:002023-01-22T11:29:01.060-05:00Rotting In Style - 1956 Ford F100<div style="text-align: justify;">
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Alright guys. It’s time. New camera, new collection, and a new ride. This is a 1956 Ford F100, and it’s part of the new “Penguin Collection”. This is at the Penguin Hot Rods’ location at Winter Park Paint and Collision located in Florida.</div>
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You may remember a <a href="http://www.therandomautomotive.com/2016/06/rotting-in-style-1968-mustang-gt.html">1968 Mustang fastback</a> that I filmed a while back from the Retro Collection. The guy who owns that, owns this truck, and the Mustang’s current state isn’t much better.</div>
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The story behind the truck (and the Mustang) is when he was growing up, his father owned the truck and Mustang. His father told him that he could only have one. Naturally, he picked the Mustang, but now he has both.</div>
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While this truck may not look like much now, the restoration was started at one point. This included putting the body on the frame from a 1980s Crown Vic. It also sports the drive train from that car as well, which would be a 5.0 V8.</div>
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This truck is far from complete though. It’s rough, sort of rusty, and missing just about everything but the engine, frame, and body. Well, there are a bunch of parts tossed in the bed and in the cab, so perhaps all of those loose bits could be enough to form a complete truck. This truck (and the Mustang) WILL be restored, but for now, she remains sitting, Rotting in Style.</div>
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To see more from this collection, and quite a bunch still left over from Alaska and the other collections shot on lesser quality cameras, then make sure you come back to The Random Automotive. Make sure you head on over and subscribe to our <a href="http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=dbproductioncompany">YouTube channel</a>. Don’t forget to like us on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Random-Automotive/381108308725729?ref=hl">Facebook</a>, and be sure to follow us on <a href="https://twitter.com/TheRandomAuto">Twitter</a> for some exclusive content! Thanks for stopping by.<br />
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crossorigin="anonymous"></script>DB Production Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08129382091940965179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8973567520705071273.post-66917177228740571272017-06-15T14:46:00.001-04:002023-01-22T11:29:47.232-05:00How to Replace a Transmission Pan Gasket<br />
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This is going to be another post regarding <a href="http://www.therandomautomotive.com/p/torino-time.html">Torino Time</a> and my 1971 Ford Torino 500, but this will be a little different. Most of the time, I just tell you what I’m doing. Well, here is a how to! The leak on my transmission pan was getting pretty bad, so I decided that it was time to replace it. </div>
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This car has a standard Ford C4 transmission, but the basic principles of this apply to most transmissions. It’s pretty straight forward, and you don’t need much experience to do it. However, I would always recommend taking your car to a mechanic if you feel uncomfortable.<b> </b>There is a video at the end of this article, in the event you would like a more comedic version of this.</div>
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<b>What You Need</b> <br />
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<li>Jack stands or lift</li>
<li>Drip pan </li>
<li>Ratchet</li>
<li>Deep sockets – 1/2”, 5/16”, and 7/16” </li>
<li>Flathead screwdriver </li>
<li>Your new gasket (and filter, if your kit came with one) </li>
<li>Brakleen (for cleaning the pan) </li>
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<b>Step 1 – Lift the car</b></div>
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I would always suggest a lift if you have access to one. If you don’t, use jack stands. You shouldn’t work under a car that is supported by just jack stands, but if it’s your only option, make sure they are on level and solid ground. </div>
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<b>Step 2 – Remove the bolts and drain the fluid</b></div>
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The C4 does not have a drain plug, so the fluid will start to leak once you loosen the bolts. Use your 1/2" socket to remove the side, front, and back bolts. Leave the corner ones for last. Remove your rear corner bolts, and loosen the front ones. Your pan will begin to hang, and fluid will start dripping out, so have your drip pan ready! If you use a screwdriver to assist in the tilting of the pan, be very careful! You don’t want to bend the edges of the pan. After the fluid stops pouring out, remove the front two bolts. Hold the bottom of the pan so it doesn’t fall.<br />
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<b>Step 3 – Clean the pan</b></div>
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While the rest of the fluid drips out, take this time to clean the pan. Peel or scrape off the old gasket. Spray and wipe the pan down with Brakleen, or a cleaner of your choice. Make sure none of the old gasket is left behind on the pan. You may need to scrape some off with a razor blade. You need a clean surface with none of the old gasket left to assure a good seal.</div>
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<b>Step 4 – Remove the old filter (if you have a new one)</b></div>
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Get back under the car! Take your 5/16” socket and remove the bolts for the filter. The last one is toward the front, and that is 7/16”. There is a spring with a guide rod on the driver side of the filter. It will want to pop out. Be careful not to lose it. Inspect the filter for any metal fragments or anything out the ordinary. <b> </b></div>
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<b>Step 5 – Reinstallation</b></div>
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Now it’s time to put everything back. First, inspect the seal areas one last time to make sure they are clean. Next, install your new filter. Finger tighten the bolts. Use your ratchet to finish the job. Tighten them down in a star pattern: left side, then right, then front, then back, and repeat. Don’t over tighten the bolts! Just get them tight enough. After that, do the same thing with you pan and new gasket.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5Ppgfttkxxw/WULTqlzfeLI/AAAAAAAABdU/_iHiF7D-sMkbp2v76C1tmHPIH9EnTvGCgCLcBGAs/s1600/TT_TransPan_BlogPictures4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5Ppgfttkxxw/WULTqlzfeLI/AAAAAAAABdU/_iHiF7D-sMkbp2v76C1tmHPIH9EnTvGCgCLcBGAs/s400/TT_TransPan_BlogPictures4.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Step 6 – Top off fluids</b></div>
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After you are done, top off your transmission with fresh fluid. Make sure it is the right fluid for your car. For a 1971 Ford C4, I used type F fluid. You may need to let your vehicle get up to operating temperature and recheck your levels to make sure they are still good. </div>
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It’s actually a pretty easy thing to do. Just have the right tools, a little bit of confidence, and you can get it done! There is so much more that I have to do to my 1971 Ford Torino 500, so if you want to follow the journey, check out the series on this blog, or check out our <a href="http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=dbproductioncompany">YouTube channel</a>. Don’t forget to like us on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Random-Automotive/381108308725729?ref=hl">Facebook</a>, and be sure to follow us on <a href="https://twitter.com/TheRandomAuto">Twitter</a> for some exclusive content and updates about what will be happening to this car next! Thanks for stopping by. </div>
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DB Production Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08129382091940965179noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8973567520705071273.post-14275275810245302932017-06-09T07:05:00.001-04:002023-01-22T11:29:57.373-05:00Most Badass Body Shop in Orlando<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mPDRjlIQVfo/WTn7CQ8jjTI/AAAAAAAABc4/b9q_RSW4Zrss5mdtzGSojwNHhsNLeRuiQCEw/s1600/WPPCReview_BlogCover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="winter park paint and collision dan jones hotrod body shop orlando" border="0" data-original-height="501" data-original-width="1150" height="247" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mPDRjlIQVfo/WTn7CQ8jjTI/AAAAAAAABc4/b9q_RSW4Zrss5mdtzGSojwNHhsNLeRuiQCEw/s640/WPPCReview_BlogCover.jpg" title="" width="570" /></a></div>
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If you have a car, there will be a time that you need body work done to it. Maybe you got into an accident, maybe you need something color matched, or maybe you just want a whole new style. There are plenty of places that you can go, but if you're in central Florida, there is only one place: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/Winter-Park-Paint-and-Collision-LLC-143822689448100/">Winter Park Paint and Collision</a> in Winter Park, Florida. </div>
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Winter Park Paint and Collision is a shop that I took my car to most recently when I had an unfortunate accident. I’ll give you the quick version: the guys were great, and so was the service. I suppose I will get into the long version. </div>
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Right from the start, I knew this place would be good. They had some nice classic cars and high-end cars that they were doing work on. I knew I wouldn’t be turned away or anything though, because they were also working on cheap cars. The shop looked like a real shop: tools and parts here and there. When I got my car back, it was as good as new. </div>
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Just to give you a quick example of how awesome they are, let me explain the paint. I have taken my car to shops before to get body work done. This included a Ford dealer (I drive a Mustang). Winter Park Paint and Collision mixes all of their paint in house, and they matched the paint of my car better than the Ford dealer did. </div>
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I had the pleasure of chatting with the owner, a real straight-to-the-point man name Dan Jones. He was very easy to get along with, and didn’t mess around. This is an art to him, and he takes it very seriously. So does his team. </div>
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“We have a great team. They are very passionate about what they do, and it shows in the quality of their work,” he said to me. </div>
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They just recently moved into the current location that they are in. The shop is medium sized. They currently have one paint booth and two lifts. Jones was telling me that they plan to purchase the whole building that the shop is in, and expand. </div>
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So, what do these guys do? Don’t go to them for an oil change, but if you need paint and body work, these guys are for you. They do work for insurance companies, dealers, specialty shops, and of course the average Joe. </div>
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<a href="http://safarihp.com/">Safari Heritage Parts</a> in Orlando deals with custom Land Rovers. They use Winter Park Paint and Collision for all of their bodywork. That is just one of the companies that makes use of this top-notch body shop. </div>
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What it comes down to is that there are plenty of shops to choose, but if you want a shop that is the best, then Winter Park Paint and Collision is the way to go. Stop by and tell them The Random Automotive sent you! </div>
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<b>Winter Park Paint and Collision</b></div>
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<b>3413 N. Forsyth Road Suite A</b></div>
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<b> Winter Park, Florida</b></div>
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<b>407-636-7367</b> </div>
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As always, it’s been ages since my <a href="http://www.therandomautomotive.com/p/rotting-in-style.html">Rotting In Style</a> post, but for this one, a 1981ish Chevy Chevette Scooter! The cheapest of the cheap cars you could get. This time I am back in Skagway, Alaska, my favorite place ever. If you follow my other content like <a href="http://www.therandomautomotive.com/p/torino-time.html">Torino Time</a>, you’ll know that I got a new camera, but this was filmed years ago with my Droid Razr Maxx. WooHoo! </div>
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Anyway, again this was the cheapest of the cheap cars. Just over five grand got you this thing back in the day. It was so cheap that the back seats were optional, the bumpers were painted instead of chrome, the chrome trim was all removed from the outside, there weren’t even any arm rests, and the emblems are stickers! This car does have a chrome/plastic strip going down the side of the car, but I think that was aftermarket or custom, because I was only able to find it on one other picture online during my research. </div>
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I did find an ad for this car, and it is included in the video at the end of this article. As it’s going through a list of standard features, it clearly says excluding the Scooter. Poor little car. There was also some ridiculous financing available that Arkansas wasn’t happy about. </div>
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Now, while it may have gotten decent MPGs, the 1.6L inline 4 made a whiplash inducing 65ish horsepower. <a href="http://jalopnik.com/you-wont-guess-how-much-horsepower-a-1976-chevrolet-che-1760564165">Jalopnick did an article</a> on one that found today, these cars now make around 23 horsepower. </div>
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I don’t imagine this car would do well in Alaskan winters, but this car was originally from Arizona. Based off where this car is in this lot, and the key is in the ignition, this car is probably still a daily driver. This is Rotting In Style, not Abandoned In Style, and this car is rotting, though not as bad as others have of this year. </div>
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There is something really good looking on this car though: the reflection of the mountains. I really love and miss Alaska. </div>
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What to see more cars like this? Make sure you head on over and subscribe to our <a href="http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=dbproductioncompany">YouTube channel</a>. Don’t forget to like us on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Random-Automotive/381108308725729?ref=hl">Facebook</a>, and be sure to follow us on <a href="https://twitter.com/TheRandomAuto">Twitter</a> for some exclusive content! Thanks for stopping by.<br />
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DB Production Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08129382091940965179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8973567520705071273.post-22581477755246769432017-04-17T09:01:00.001-04:002023-01-22T11:30:21.509-05:00Dirty Windshield Solved! (Torino Time)<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dcGOqcrwRWc/WPQPk4JpPoI/AAAAAAAABbo/WvsWSbr3XY0ger1s2y5E8AAJKLtXbLClACLcB/s1600/TorinoTimeWindshieldWasherFluid_BlogCover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="1971 ford torino 500 restoration torino time florida fluid leak" border="0" height="247" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dcGOqcrwRWc/WPQPk4JpPoI/AAAAAAAABbo/WvsWSbr3XY0ger1s2y5E8AAJKLtXbLClACLcB/s640/TorinoTimeWindshieldWasherFluid_BlogCover.jpg" title="" width="570" /></a> </div>
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I had a little bit of time, and a new camera that I wanted to test out, so that means my <a href="http://www.therandomautomotive.com/2016/11/torino-time.html">1971 Ford Torino 500</a> got a little more work done, and Torino Time got another episode. This time, I tackled the windshield washer fluid system. </div>
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Now, why did I go for something so minor versus tackling the rust or turn signal? Well, this was easy, and cheap to do. The motor worked, so all I needed was to replace the hoses. Before I started this project, I removed the fluid reservoir, and broke it in the process. I had to seal up the bottom. I time went on, I realized that I didn’t do a great job on that.</div>
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Regardless, the old hoses literally fell apart in my hands, so those had to go. I got some cheap hose from Home Depot and went to work. It was pretty straight forward with removal. The hardest part was getting the rubber grommets in the hood out in one piece, which I did manage to do. Then it was equally as challenging to remove the old hoses from those grommets. Basically when the hose was stuck anywhere, breaking them was the answer.</div>
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Installation was a breeze. However, I nearly gave up when the reservoir started leaking, and nothing was coming out of the sprayers. I popped one of the hoses off the sprayers, engaged them, and got sprayed with water. So, there was pressure, but it stopped at the sprayers. Turns out, they were painted over. </div>
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I sanded the ends down, and shoved a metal pick in the front of them to pry them open. One more test fire, and they worked like a charm. The driver one sprays over the roof, while the passenger one is about half the power. Either way, it works for me! </div>
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Want to see my process? Check out the video! Now, I got a new camera, and I am still getting used to the settings. There was a lot that was out of focus. Sorry! I’m a sound guy, not a video guy. </div>
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There is still so much more to do with this car, but I would hope that you join me in this adventure. Want to find out what I do next? Follow the series on this blog, or check out our <a href="http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=dbproductioncompany">YouTube channel</a>. Don’t forget to like us on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Random-Automotive/381108308725729?ref=hl">Facebook</a>, and be sure to follow us on <a href="https://twitter.com/TheRandomAuto">Twitter</a> for some exclusive content and updates about what will be happening to this car next! Thanks for stopping by. </div>
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crossorigin="anonymous"></script>DB Production Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08129382091940965179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8973567520705071273.post-41668061401278867882017-02-28T15:55:00.001-05:002023-01-22T11:30:32.978-05:00Mustang Arm Rest Cover – Long-Term Review <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ppuwNqThQec/WLXitdKrFsI/AAAAAAAABbM/tPsR1I0iK9YSOFgmEY-N8h7fnZ6VpcMNACLcB/s1600/ArmRestCover_Cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="mustang arm rest cover american muscle review 2005 - 2009" border="0" height="247" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ppuwNqThQec/WLXitdKrFsI/AAAAAAAABbM/tPsR1I0iK9YSOFgmEY-N8h7fnZ6VpcMNACLcB/s640/ArmRestCover_Cover.jpg" title="" width="570" /></a></div>
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Mustangs are the AR15s of the automotive world. There are so many customizable options. From performance parts, to dress up parts, you name it, someone has made an aftermarket version of it.</div>
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Readers may know that I have a 2005 V6 Mustang. It’s my daily driver, and I’ve had it since 2009. Yes, it’s only a V6, but I still love it, and have done many things to make it mine. One of them was an <a href="http://www.americanmuscle.com/armrest-pony-0509.html">arm rest cover from American Muscle</a>. They offer a few different versions. I opted for the running pony one.</div>
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Installation was pretty straight forward. You have to remove the arm rest/top of the center console, fold the cover over it, and use a staple gun to get it into place. The first issue I had was with fitment. The rounded corners at the front seemed too thick, and it started to pull and separate the cushion of the arm rest from the plastic. No big deal. It wasn’t bad enough for me to care.</div>
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Once I got it on, it looked fantastic! It really dressed up the car, and I was super happy. That was in 2012.</div>
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As time went on the, the stitching started to get dirty. You expect that. What I didn’t expect was for it to start vanishing. Not pulling, but parts of it would simply disappear. Then the leather started to crack and peel. That caused it to poke into my arm. Now, five years and 46,457 miles later, it looks like absolute garbage.</div>
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I also can’t just take it off, because remember that pulling I mentioned? That won’t settle back down, so I’m kind of stuck with it.</div>
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At this point, as I mentioned, it has been on my daily driver for five years 46,457 miles, and sat in storage at one point for six months straight when I put my car in a garage while I left for a long term contract. It did start to fail after a year or so and got progressively worse.</div>
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I attempted to bring this to American Muscle’s attention, but I was ignored. That is highly surprising as they have fantastic customer service. I hate to talk bad about products, especially when they are from companies that I like, but I figured that I would warn anyone interested in this product that it won’t last. </div>
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I put about 75 miles on my car per day, it stays outside in the Florida sun, and I open and close the console a lot. However, I would have expected this to hold up a little better, especially considering it started to show signs pretty early. Oh well. I guess you get what you pay for! </div>
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DB Production Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08129382091940965179noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8973567520705071273.post-83157817954245189592017-02-25T19:50:00.002-05:002023-01-22T11:30:49.875-05:00One Rusty Torino - Torino Time!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I9cq-HT7Cks/WLIkbBYG7kI/AAAAAAAABaU/vTyBRJoTk4AtMHeelOVd-ioSiBSYml3bwCLcB/s1600/TrunkPt1_BlogCover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="1971 ford torino 500 rust restoration random automotive florida 302 v8" border="0" height="247" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I9cq-HT7Cks/WLIkbBYG7kI/AAAAAAAABaU/vTyBRJoTk4AtMHeelOVd-ioSiBSYml3bwCLcB/s640/TrunkPt1_BlogCover.jpg" title="" width="570" /></a></div>
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Yes, I am alive. For the die-hard readers, you know the story: I’m working all the time, and have little time to dedicate to this kind of stuff. Anyway… This video was actually filmed when I <a href="http://www.therandomautomotive.com/2016/11/fixing-my-door-torino-time.html">fixed my door</a>, but I never got around to editing it.</div>
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This <a href="http://www.therandomautomotive.com/2016/11/torino-time.html">1971 Ford Torino 500</a> is plagued with rust. One of the first areas I decided to tackle was the trunk. I have never attempted rust removal and treatment on this scale before, so I figured the trunk would be best. Why? So if I mess up, no one will see it!</div>
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The right way to do this is replace the gas tank (since it has nine holes in it), grind out all the rusted metal, and weld in new metal. Since I’m cheap, I will be doing none of that. I will be plugging the holes with gas tank putty, sanding down (by hand) the rusty metal, spraying the area with Rust Fix, going crazy with fiberglass patches, and finally priming and painting the area.</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gujdrR9J-RQ/WLIkavRd5MI/AAAAAAAABaI/DE9RCjJ5DWM7KAYKX8ShqmbMWx4YOYGFgCEw/s1600/TrunkPt1_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="1971 ford torino 500 rust restoration random automotive florida 302 v8" border="0" height="225" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gujdrR9J-RQ/WLIkavRd5MI/AAAAAAAABaI/DE9RCjJ5DWM7KAYKX8ShqmbMWx4YOYGFgCEw/s400/TrunkPt1_1.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EZz0-atAuk4/WLIkaiiDwLI/AAAAAAAABaE/T97kxix9TkAT2ecqwnGRlUOE7Fnvkvo_gCEw/s1600/TrunkPt1_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="1971 ford torino 500 rust restoration random automotive florida 302 v8" border="0" height="225" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EZz0-atAuk4/WLIkaiiDwLI/AAAAAAAABaE/T97kxix9TkAT2ecqwnGRlUOE7Fnvkvo_gCEw/s400/TrunkPt1_2.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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When I started this, it proved to be much more challenging than I originally thought. There will be multiple parts to this trunk fiasco. </div>
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Basically, this time around was just the sanding and Rust Fix. I got buzzed off acetone and the Rust Fix, and discovered another hole in the gas tank. I did make a lot of progress, but I have so much more to go. If you’re so inclined to see me inhale vast amounts of rust dust before submitting to the common sense of acquiring a mask, please watch the video. </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VI0S8c20hJ4/WLIka9NCF7I/AAAAAAAABaM/ndXyl-v4Vb4GrFyyh3--mLJjByR2wtGDgCEw/s1600/TrunkPt1_3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="1971 ford torino 500 rust restoration random automotive florida 302 v8" border="0" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VI0S8c20hJ4/WLIka9NCF7I/AAAAAAAABaM/ndXyl-v4Vb4GrFyyh3--mLJjByR2wtGDgCEw/s400/TrunkPt1_3.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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There is still so much more to do with this car, but I would hope that
you join me in this adventure. Want to find out what I do next? Follow
the series on this blog, or check out our <a href="http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=dbproductioncompany">YouTube channel</a>. Don’t forget to like us on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Random-Automotive/381108308725729?ref=hl">Facebook</a>, and be sure to follow us on <a href="https://twitter.com/TheRandomAuto">Twitter</a> for some exclusive content and updates about what will be happening to this car next! Thanks for stopping by. </div>
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crossorigin="anonymous"></script>DB Production Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08129382091940965179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8973567520705071273.post-77368339321318153412016-11-09T20:57:00.001-05:002023-01-22T11:31:04.898-05:00Fixing My Door - Torino Time<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1azius55acQ/WCPTCXrQ1SI/AAAAAAAABYE/tb4m1YWZwEY8O6UdM476Sc7aCPIs3O8TgCLcB/s1600/TorinoTimeDoor_BlogCover.jpg"><img alt="1971 ford torino 500 v8 302 restoration zip tie door florida abandoned" border="0" height="247" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1azius55acQ/WCPTCXrQ1SI/AAAAAAAABYE/tb4m1YWZwEY8O6UdM476Sc7aCPIs3O8TgCLcB/s640/TorinoTimeDoor_BlogCover.jpg" title="" width="570" /></a><br />
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For the first restoration/repair work of Torino Time, featuring my 1971 Ford Torino 500, I tackle that damn door. As I mentioned in the <a href="http://www.therandomautomotive.com/2016/11/torino-time.html">Torino Time intro</a>, the driver side door stopped working from the outside while the engine was being worked on. I assumed this would be an easy fix, and something that I really wanted fixed soon, so that’s what I tackled first. </div>
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First step was removing the door panel. It was a couple screws and some bolts. I was not prepared for the bolts holding the armrest in, but, whatever! I got them off after some time. </div>
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I knew that something had just come disconnected. When I finally got the panel off, I found out that this had happened before, because the zip tie holding the mechanism in place from when it became disconnected in the past had broken. If it was good enough for the previous owner, it was good enough for me! One zip tie later, and I could use my door again. </div>
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It wasn’t as good of a zip tie as the one that broke, so it will break again, but at least I know it can be fixed again! Aren’t old cars great? Check out the video for the full adventure. </div>
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There is still so much more to do with this car, but I would hope that you join me in this adventure. Want to find out what I do next? Follow the series on this blog, or check out our <a href="http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=dbproductioncompany">YouTube channel</a>. Don’t forget to like us on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Random-Automotive/381108308725729?ref=hl">Facebook</a>, and be sure to follow us on <a href="https://twitter.com/TheRandomAuto">Twitter</a> for some exclusive content and updates about what will be happening to this car next! Thanks for stopping by. </div>
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