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Showing posts from April, 2014

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Rotting in Style - 1961 Austin A40 Farina Mark I

Abandoned Import Rotting in Style

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The Men Behind The Mustang: Where Are They Now?

Educational Review

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Wax Daddy Bead X - The Last Quick Detailer You'll Need

Cosmetic Detailing Review

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US Mail Truck Specs

If you live in the United States, you see these everywhere: the US Postal Service Mail Truck. Recently, I have been very curious about what these things actually are. I mean, no one else uses them, so I had to know what makes them so special. Turns out they actually have a name: the Grumman LLV. LLV stands for Long Life Vehicle, and that is exactly what they were designed to do. The USPS (back in the 1980s) presented a list of requirements to anyone interested in making the next postal vehicle to replace the Jeeps they used before. The Smithsonian Postal Museum has that list: Drive 5,760 miles on a closed loop 5-mile-long paved road at 50 to 55 mph Drive 11,520 miles over a gravel road at 30 to 45 mph Drive 2,880 miles over a road with a shoulder, stopping every 250 feet and accelerating to 15 mph in between Drive 960 miles over cobblestones that ranged from 3 to 4 inches high at 10 to 14 mph Drive 960 miles over potholes at 10 to 14 mph...

Car Parts - Engine Bay

It is very important to know the basics of your car. Knowledge like this can help you avoid a hefty bill from a dishonest mechanic, or just help you troubleshoot what may be causing a problem. There are many things you should know, but for today, let’s cover the basics of what is in your engine bay (under your hood). This is going to be simple, and just give you the basic such as how you identify the part, and what it does. I will be showing examples with two vehicles: a 2005 V6 Mustang, and a 2002 Chevy Blazer. This will give you an idea of how these parts can look different depending on what vehicle you are in. Don't forget to see the video located at the bottom of this post. So let’s start… Alternator This is the alternator. You can identify it by its cylindrical shape, and the coiled wire inside. This is basically your car’s generator. When the power from the battery is used to start the car,...

Mustang Taillight Guide

Some cars are built to look different, while some are built to get from point A to point B. As some of you may know, I am a huge Mustang fun. They look great (some generations), they function well, and they do get you from point A to point B, but with character and fun. A defining feature (at least for most generations) of the Mustang is the tri-bar taillight. Yes, the pony emblem obviously, but since that is located on the front and most of Ford’s competition sees the back, well then here is a guide to be able to identify Mustangs by their tail lights. Keep in mind that I am writing this as a compilation of my research. I am not an expert, so while there shouldn’t be any mistakes, very minuscule details may slip past me. This is also about taillights straight from the factory. As time went on, and parts became more “modular”, taillights became one of the most customizable features of the Mustang in terms of aftermark...

How To Replace Your Battery Terminal Clamps

If the battery terminal clamps on your car are cracked, worn, or don’t tighten all the way anymore, it’s probably time to replace them. Don’t worry! It’s cheap and easy to do with only a few tools that are essential to have for many DIY projects, and about ten minutes of your time. Tools you need: Ratchet Sockets (whatever size fits your old and new terminal clamps) Snips or wire cutters Wire strippers (or a knife) Sand paper Your new clamps I will say again that these tools are a must have for any DIYer . First , disconnect your battery clamps form the battery. Loosen the bolt holding them on, or just pull them off if they are very loose. Be careful not to touch the positive and negative terminals of the battery at the same time, or you will become a conductor of electricity! Second , use your snips or wire cutters and cut off the clamp currently on your battery wire. If you have non factory clamps on there already, loosen any bolts that ma...

Rotting In Style - 1936 Chevy 1.5 Ton Truck

With having about two days off per month now, bringing you quality content is becoming a little tough. So, I figured if I was going to bring you something, it might as well be good. Well, isn’t it always? Regardless, I’m back at Retro and bringing you what appears to be a 1936 Chevy 1.5 ton truck! I was originally told that this was a 1934, but based off a little research, the hood of this truck makes it appear to be at least a 1936. I’m not a truck expert, so I could be wrong. If it is a 1936, that makes this the second oldest vehicle to be featured on Rotting In Style so far. The oldest is a 1934 Austin 7 from the Gabel Collection. That car was known as the “Baby Austin”, but this truck is anything but baby. Now this thing is a truck. It’s wood, steel, and glass. That’s it. It’s one of those, “they don’t build them like they used to” things for sure. Getting the specs on this was easy. The GM Heritage Center has the original ...

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Abandoned
Alaska Collection
Auto Shop
Basics
Charity
Cosmetic
Detailing
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Driving
Educational

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Gabel Collection
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How To
Import
JDM
Land Rover
Modification
Next Gen
Parts
Penguin Collection
Repair
Retro Collection
Review
Rotting in Style
Style
The Big Three
Torino Time

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